Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua; historically Cottonera; collectively The Three Cities; are Malta’s original fortified stronghold. Humans have dwelt in these areas since Neolithic times and the civilisations that conquered and colonised the Maltese islands, from the Phoenicians to the British Empire, have all found shelter in the stunning natural harbour. The cities pre date the capital city Valletta and the fortifications were built by the Knights of St John to protect the islands from the threat of Ottoman invasion.
Largely overlooked by tourists, and until recently the Maltese themselves, each of the cities has something to offer anyone searching for a glimpse into Malta’s past. Cottonera is a window to a way of life that once dominated the islands while at the same time acting as an example of the old merging with the new to create fresh beauty with classic style. Honeycomb coloured narrow streets meander within the city walls, houses are beautifully taken care of by residents proud of their heritage, window boxes flourish with flowers and front door steps are swept clean with reassuring regularity.
Tasteful wine bars and eateries have begun to spring up in the lanes and along the water front, attracting patrons from all over Malta who are drawn there by the elegant and peaceful atmosphere so different to the hustle and bustle nightlife of St Julians. Areas once neglected are being revived thanks to renewed interest from local businesses; and a concerted effort by the Malta Tourism Authority is putting the Three Cities back on the tourist map.
Historically; Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua, are most notable for being the setting for one of Malta’s most notoriously violent and bloody battles; the Great Siege of 1565. A small army of 9000 souls; made up of Knights, Maltese soldiers and civilians(including women and children), barricaded themselves within the walls of Birgu and fort St Elmo and held off a 40,000 strong Ottoman army; a moment in history that many people now consider as Malta’s finest hour. Birgu was renamed Citta Vittoriosa by the Knights after the Siege, just as Isla was renamed Senglea, and Bormla became Cospicua; both names for each city are still in use today.
Malta’s strategic location, the Grand harbour, and Bormla’s extensive dry docks were a great advantage to the British during WWI and WWII. However, Malta suffered prolonged and devastating bombings from enemy aircraft and the damage to Senglea was so great that much of the city had to be rebuilt. Many beautiful and historic buildings were lost. Between them, the cities have several museums worth visiting. In Birgu the Inquisitor’s Palace and the Maritime museum are perhaps the most interesting, and on the Waterfront you’ll find the former Palace of the General of the Galleys and the Order of St John’s treasury.
Bormla is renowned for its Good Friday celebrations; a statue of the Resurrection of Jesus is held aloft and walked through the city’s streets symbolizing Jesus’ triumph over death, a tradition which originated in the 18th century and whose popularity has remained strong among both locals and tourists alike. For those who like their history to be ancient, Bormla also has three megalithic burial caves and a Troglodytic chapel, as well as caves that lay claim to being used as a place for prayer whilst St Paul was shipwrecked on Malta around 60AD.
There is no doubt that a trip to Malta would not be fully appreciated without a visit to these wonderful old cities, each with its own unique character and its own particular story to tell. Book at one of the several hotels around Malta and take a leisurely stroll back in time. Spend the day enjoying the fantastic examples of traditional Maltese architecture, and then find a peaceful spot on the waterfront for quiet contemplation and a cappuccino.
