Immortalized in nearly every form of artistic expression throughout its illustrious heritage, the Amalfi Coast speaks many creative “languages” – gastronomic, historical, musical, poetic, and literary, to name a few. And certainly it would be hard to argue with the synonymous aspects of Southern Italy’s wine production, its limoncello, its tourists, its patron celebrities, and so forth. These and many others are indeed what personify this enigmatic, dazzling region. But the ingenuous vocabulary of artistry does not end with dessert at the local trattoria; nor is it “over when the fat lady sings” at the local opera house; it does not fade with the sunsets over the turquoise Tyrrhenian, or fall out of vogue when one movie star’s career eclipses another… on the contrary, the craftsmanship particular to the Amalfi Coast seems to reach its zenith not in the flashy and the obvious, but in the subtle, simple turn of hand and refined aesthetic preserved so beautifully in the Almafi ceramic tradition; an alphabet of extraordinary mastery translated into ordinary objects, found in everyday settings.
Ceramics as an art requires tremendous care and skill – it is not only the final decorative designs we see, so ubiquitous along the Amalfi Coast, in well-known motifs such as lemons and grapes – but it is also a painstakingly detailed process, from the initial development of the earth that will be used as clay, to the chemically precise composition of each color and glaze, to the heating of the kiln and the delicately fragile, yet firey passage each piece must make before finally coming to rest either on a boutique shelf or on a local dinnertable. Thus the admiration and exploration of Amalfi Coast ceramics could be considered a specialty all on its own, and certainly merits the spirit of discovery it inspires, for all the rich rewards it brings to the region.
Many locations in this area are already well-known for their ceramics production and presentation, among them Ravello, Vietri sul Mare, and of course Naples, which also offers a wide berth of foundational exploration for the appreciation of ceramics, thanks to its archaeological sites, historical museums, collections, and countless artisan boutiques. But the joy and diversity in ceramic artistry are shared and celebrated in fascinating contexts, many somewhat off the beaten track but all well within the scope of an informed tour of Amalfi’s environs.
For example, just next to the Vesuvian skyline, Sorrento keeps the magic of ceramics alive, with bright citrusy colors, bold brushstrokes, and the classic shiny glaze making every piece practically gleam with originality. Certainly, Sorrento’s place in ceramic history was sealed with its “Golden Age” in the 1800s – but even in recent years this unique form of craftsmanship has enjoyed tremendous success thanks to a steady demand for Sorrentino pottery.
Nearby, off the coast, Ischia – a lesser-known volcanic island neighboring Capri – proudly boasts a longstanding heritage of both archaeological ceramic specimens and modern-day artisans at the height of their craft. The Church of Saint Restituta, located in Ischia’s “Lacco Ameno,” houses a fascinating glimpse of artifacts all speaking to the incredibly refined production of ceramic objects during ancient times; further exploration of Ischia soon reveals the well-known name of Taki Calise, the most celebrated ceramic artist of the island. His work is best known to the public through majolica and terracotta sculptures, full of the warmth and vibrant colors so classic to the Mediterranean regions.
Make the most of your ceramics safari by choosing to stay in any of the amazing Amalfi Coast rentals, including apartments and larger villas.
